Chefchaouen

The very last day of our Moroccan adventure was in the bluest town in the world, Chefchaouen.  Every shade of blue and all of the winding, hilly streets made this another of our favorite stops.  (The warm temps didn't hurt either).  We stayed in a super charming hotel overlooking the entire town and surrounding Rif Mountains.  The backdrop for this place was nothing short of seriously incredible- it was so dreamy.  And, it reminded us of our stay on Hydra in Greece- same layout of a city built into a mountain with great views, painted walls, winding alleys and shops, and the friendliest people.    

The clerk at our hotel told us that the original Jewish settlers painted their homes blue to set them apart, and eventually it caught on.  Plus, it had a practical side-effect.  Because it appears to mosquitoes as if it is running water, they stay away...major bonus.  The blue homes and orange tile roofs was too much perfection in one place!

Lauren lost a tooth in the car before we got to Chefchaouen (it was wiggly before we left and her "goal" was to lose it in Morocco).  If you look closely, you can see the gap, which I think is just about the cutest thing ever.  Something about a gap-toothed child makes me smile. 

Our cute hotel, like a beach-goer's dream.  Below is the view from our hotel, but these pictures just don't really even do it justice.  I could spend a lot of time in this city.  

After we checked in to the hotel, we all got ready to get out and explore.  On the way down the stairs, Brian pulled the muscles in his calf and couldn't even lift his leg.  Poor guy had to stay back and nurse it while we went out.  Nothing is ever as fun without Dad around (and we definitely don't get pictures as nice!) so we didn't stay away for long.  We grabbed lunch at a restaurant overlooking the city, did a quick tour of the biggest kasbah (large family home- this one had been made into a museum), and then headed home. We narrowly avoided a massive and sudden downpour, so we weren't too unhappy about leaving when we did.  We had a delicious dinner at the hotel that night and slept well after a beautiful last day in amazing Morocco.  Early the next morning, we headed to Tangier for our flight out.  

Its hard to summarize a trip like this one in mere words and pictures.  You really have to be there (smell, taste, sound and hear) to understand how this place can open your eyes and make you learn by leaps and bounds.  It was nothing short of magic...it certainly wasn't perfect, but thats what made it memorable.  And, we could not have had better traveling partners in my parents. They're so easy to be around, energetic, adventurous, and so loving with our kids.  Morocco was certainly a trip none of us will ever forget.

All The Way To Fez

From the desert, we drove to Fez, the "Mecca of the West" or the "Athens of Africa," the cultural, religious and actual former capital of Morocco. But on the way, we made some more interesting stops, including feeding monkeys in the cedar forests of Azrou...which happened to be covered in literal feet of snow!!  To go from the desert, to tree-topped mountains covered in snow and monkeys, to a massive old city in a day's time is a testament to the rich diversity of Morocco.   

Below: saying "layhannike" (goodbye in Berber) to our tent village and squeezing some last-minute sand-boarding in.

Apparently monkeys love vanilla wafers because they were so friendly and would take them right out of your hand.  This guy gave our girls several wafers and then lifted Tessa closer so she could reach. Such a fun experience in the Atlas Mountains.

Fez from above...it totally reminded us of Athens.

The mosque (rectangle pillar above) was a hallmark of every single village in Morocco.  There were over 300 in Fez alone, by which we heard many calls to prayer during the day.  I really admire the devotion of the Islamic people and appreciate it on a totally different level after spending so much time in a Muslim culture.  

We stayed in a riad, a typical Moroccan house with an interior courtyard, that is now used as a hotel.  Its really hard to describe the ornate homes in Fez- on the outside they were nothing special (see above), but on the inside they looked like little palaces, adorned with marble floors, tile-covered walls, a fountain, wood carvings, and intricately carved white plaster.  They were just incredible to look at.  Below is a typical geometric pattern of tile-work found in most riads and mosques.  We visited an old ceramic factory while we were there and it was utterly amazing to see all of the steps and hard work that went into creating a design like the one below.

This is the courtyard of our riad (most are open to the sky- ours was not- and have built in drains for rainy days).  We ate breakfast and dinner here and slept in the room with the door open and pictured below.  Can we talk about how beautiful these rugs are too?!

Fez is believed to have one of the world's largest urban pedestrian zones. Winding alleyways ran like mazes through the medina, or old city.  These alleys led to markets selling every kind of imaginable item- like the most gigantic Target of all time ;) filled with camel meat, nougat candies, dried fruits, handmade scarves, ceramics, metal works, clothing, leather goods unlike anything I've ever seen before.

Walking through these souks was a huge cultural experience that we loved...we spent the entire day on a walking tour with our local guide, Aziz.  He told us about all of the elements of design used in a riad and a mosque that tie to the Muslim religion.  It was all so interesting!

The 5 elements of Moroccan design are in this mosque: 1. tile 2. marble 3. plaster 4. wood and 5. a fountain (for cleansing before prayer)

These pictures are from our tour of the ceramic factory.  Above was the first stage of making pottery and the final stage of cutting tiles for intricate patterns below.  Most, if not all, of the people in this factory work here because their fathers worked also worked here- jobs are passed down from one generation to the next.

We bought some pretty salt and pepper shakers in their store, but they broke during the flight home. :( Grandma happened to buy an extra set, and she gifted it to us before she left.

This is probably after some stranger tried to pick Tessa up :)  She was not having it at this point of our trip. How cool are these handmade copper pots for sale? The shop owners were banging them out all right here.

Camel meat for sale!

We visited more rug shops than I'd like to think about (I'm pretty sure Poppy could have done that all day long every day!).  But, this one was the best.  It was in an old gorgeous riad and the salesman was just as charming as they come!  Yes, we bought a rug from him and its in our entry way right now!

The rug we took home is on the floor on the right.

We loved Fez so much...it was a cultural explosion unlike anything we've ever seen.  The people of Fez were so nice and welcoming and they live in a beautiful city full of so much richness.

Sahara Desert- Erg Chebbi

From Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains and the Dades Gorges to the Erg Chebbi dunes of the Sahara desert, we have already seen so many different and incredible landscapes in Morocco. But, this was by far our very favorite.  I've never seen desert like this (outside of the movies) and it was kind of surreal- the orange colored sand dunes as far as you can see, with the amazing blue sky providing a perfect contrast.  It totally felt like the set for Aladdin (they actually have filmed quite a few movies here).  When we arrived, there were camels waiting for us to ride to our campsite...this was my favorite part of our entire trip.

Getting up on the camels was equally terrifying and hilarious.  These amazing and huge animals rise up on their back legs first, which throws you forward so you better make sure you're holding on tight!  Our guides informed us that these were actually dromedaries, not camels (one hump versus two) and that we had to have both hands on the handlebars at all times- it would have been a big fall if you went down.  There had been an unexpected cold front sweeping through Morocco, so it was really, really cold and we all bundled up as best we could for the 45 minute ride to the tents we would be sleeping in.  The ride itself was just awesomely different and so cool- its just one of those things that you can't do anywhere else in the world and in those moments, it feels like this fantastic memory that you can keep forever and ever.

These traditional camel hair tents at Bivouac Merzouga were top-notch camping.  They came with nice beds and LOTS of covers for the cold.  Hot showers, a toilet, working plugs and a sink meant that they were right up my camping alley. :) We had 3 tents between the 8 of us and because we were the only families there, we had the place to ourselves.  For meals, we would gather at the open tent at the top around a big table and ate some of best traditional Berber food--tagine of meats, traditional Moroccan bread (called khobz and its served at all 3 meals every day), rice, french fries, vegetables and always finished with a dessert of fresh fruit (one night they served it sprinkled with cinnamon- so good!).  The food here was so delicious.

On our first morning, we had a traditional breakfast of Moroccan pancakes (called msemen) smothered with cream cheese, honey and jams finished with boiled eggs and more khobz.  We got back on the camels and rode them to our cars so we could visit some local sites.  We went to the black village of Khamlia to see and hear the Gnawa musicians followed by a trip to the old coal mines, where the kids could have spent hours picking out colorful rocks to keep.  We stopped by to see the nomads and how they can make a life in the desert with their families. 

For lunch, we ate traditional Berber pizza at the cutest outdoor cafe right off of the dunes.  It had a swing too (see above), so the kids all took turns swinging in the desert.

At the mines (above and below), picking out rocks and Tessa getting some love from one of our drivers.

(at the pizza cafe above and below).  It was soooo Moroccan and really eclectic.

At the nomad village (where they slept is above and where they cook their food is below).

After we got back from lunch, it was time for the kids' favorite part...sandboarding!  We used old snowboards and climbed the dunes to glide back down.  We spotted the highest dune and decided to climb to the top, which was much harder than it looks so we all got a great workout at the same time! :)  On the way down this really big dune, the sandboard would get going super fast, which was a little bit scary too...I totally bailed on my run because we were going way too fast for my liking.  By the end, the kids were standing up and riding the boards down the dunes instead of sitting...they had so much fun!

Staying in the desert for a couple nights was so singularly unique...I hope this part of our trip stays embedded in my kids' minds forever.

More pictures of our trek into to the camp

Morocco! (Part 1 of 4)

Every place we have visited has been different, but Morocco was different-er than the rest.  We didn't know what to expect, and this country kind of blew us away.  So many different things to see and do.  Wow.  I'm going to try my very best to give you a good idea of what we saw...

We flew into Marrakech late Saturday night after a short layover in Madrid.  We weren't able to get an earlier flight, so we missed exploring the souks in the city.  We woke early the next morning and hit the road towards Bivouac Merzouga and the Sahara.  But, first, Ourzazatte and the many kasbahs (large family homes) along the way.  The villages along the windy Atlas mountain paths were something like we've never seen.  Built out of straw and mud, rising from the sides and tops of mountains, having been there for literally hundreds of years, untouched by time and modern conveniences.  These Moroccan Berbers live off of the land, growing only what they need to survive and trade for goods. We stopped at a small souk (below) where Poppy picked up a rug and the girls were taught how to properly put on a scarf.  This guy was so sweet and helped all 4 girls with their scarves...the Moroccans have the most humble, kind and friendly manners.

Tessa is the cutest!  She sat totally still for this part and we had to buy that orange scarf so we could remember this moment.  Check out all of the goregous colors going on in the background too...I love it!

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Berber village in the Atlas Mountains

We drove 9 hours on day one to make up for a lost day of travel.  But, that accounted for lots of stops for pictures.  Poppy bargaining on a rug (below).

We ended at the Dades Gorges...stunning red rocks (and similar colored houses) dotted the hills.  We stayed the night at a hotel right here in this valley (below) and woke up to snow!!  

You can't see the snow, but its coming down on us and the landing of our hotel.  Check out view too!

Aren't these villages amazing?! This one is nestled into a massive gorge and is totally remote. 

Tessa was a favorite of the locals.  In the cutest way possible, all of the men just wanted to hold her and get two seconds of attention.  But, she wasn't having it most of the time.  She was pretty tired of the extra attention from strangers by the end of our trip.  Still, it was really fun to see the differences in our cultures and appreciate what we could learn about it.  Below is one of our drivers, Mohammed, trying to get a hug.

Todra Gorge was a massive opening with sheer red cliffs and a river dividing it in two.  Our drivers let us out of the car and we walked the entire length and crossed the river too.

On our way to the desert.  A quick stop along the way to discover how water was transported from the desert oasis to villages many years ago.  

Inside the tent, where we were offered typical Moroccan mint tea and an opportunity to buy some souvenirs ;). 

Next stop...the Sahara!

My Parents Are in Town!

Back at the beginning of February, my parents came to visit London (and Morocco, but we will get to that later).  I haven't seen them since early June (EIGHT months ago!) so I was totally excited to spend some good time together.  They arrived early Monday morning and I assumed their loooong flight would have wiped them out, requiring a nap before they'd be able to function.  I was wrong.  They barely had their bags set down in their room before they wanted to get out and explore!  It was awesome and we didn't waste a minute...

Day One: Explored Notting Hill (gorgeous, charming, uppity in a good way), walked Portobello Road in the rain, ate lunch at Granger & Co. (hello, ricotta hotcakes with bananas and honey butter!!), and finished that off with the yummiest treats at Ottolenghi (their flourless chocolate cake was made in heaven).  We caught the tube home just in time to beat my older girls home from school.  They were so excited to see Grandma and Poppy!!

(Covent Garden and its street performers below)

Day Two: Brian, Tessa, my parents and I had breakfast reservations at Darwin's Brasserie at the Walkie Talkie building in central London.  The breakfast was sub-par, but the company and the views were a m a z i n g.  You can literally see ALL of London way, way way high from every angle.  It was pretty awesome and a definite must-do for visitors (you have to book in advance, but the Sky Garden views are free and cannot be beat).  We loitered around for quite some time getting our bearings and taking it in.  Below is a picture looking south at the Shard.  From there, we took the tube to Westminster Abbey and the buildings of Parliament/Big Ben- one of my favorite parts of the city.  I love the Abbey as well as the memorials surrounding it and a visit to London is incomplete without this stop.  We then walked to the Tate Britain museum.  I cannot believe I haven't been here yet- I absolutely loved seeing many of JMW Turner's masterpieces...I would fill the walls of my home with his work if I could.  Last, we took a bus past Buckingham Palace to Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery.  The sun was out in full force, and so were the street performers.  We sat and watched from between the columns of the National Gallery to take the perfect afternoon in...now this spot is my favorite place in all of London.  

(Above is the Sky Garden)

Day Three: Tessa wanted to go to preschool today because she was missing her sweet friends. After dropping her off, we put our comfortable shoes on for a long walk around the neighborhood.  We admired the gorgeous homes of Avenue Road and then wound over to the top of Primrose Hill for another view of London.  From there, we went up....up the hills and winding streets to the charming, quaint, and quiet streets of Hampstead.  Dad wanted to check out some antiques, so we did that, and then headed back to get Tessa from preschool.  We scooted down to Borough Market for a yummy lunch and treats (the best brownies and doughnuts ever!).  Later that night, we all went to Harrod's to check out the famous Food Hall and Toy Kingdom.

Day Four: We walked Covent Garden for lunch and the best street performers (video above)...Trafalgar Square again (you really can't tire of that place)...Piccadilly Circus...Leicester Square (struck out on tickets to a Broadway here)...Regent Street for shopping...finished off with a walk through gorgeous Mayfair.  (I think I may be starting to finally wear my parents out...we have been averaging about 8 miles/day so far).

Saatchi Gallery

The girls giggled forever at this installation that distorted their faces and bodies.

Gorgeous side streets of Chelsea

Day Five: Still having some energy to go, we headed to Chelsea- another area that I've never been to.  I bought these cool walking tour cards, which I brought along, so we could navigate and see some interesting things.  We walked off the bus and into bustling Sloane Square and then down the famous King's Road (high-end shopper's paradise).  We then headed straight for the Saatchi Gallery.  Taylor and Lauren's classes were asked to participate in an art display with 3000 other kids from around the world.  They decorated boxes and filled an entire room at the Saatchi with all of them...it was really cool and also hard to find the one you were looking for- we could sadly only find Taylor's box.  But now Taylor and Lauren can say that they've had art on display at a famous gallery in London, right?! ;)  We finished our Chelsea walk through the charming side streets where famous people used to live (and probably still do!) and then by the handsome Royal Hospital Chelsea built by Christopher Wren in the 1600's.  Gorgeous.  

It sure was fun to show my parents all around London.  We mostly spent time in places that I hadn't seen yet, so it was really cool to see more of this city.  But, man, I just love spending time with family no matter what we do or see.  There really is nothing better.